Mike Breiding's Epic Road Trips ~ The Flight of the Snow Birds: Winter 2011: Big Bend National Park

Tuesday: January 26th

When I was planning my first visit to the Big Bend area in 2005 I mentioned the upcoming trip to Martin. He and Kathy had recently been to the area and he mentioned the Chisos Mountains and also how they had taken a dip in a hot spring down by the Rio Grande. This whetted my appetite and sounded very exotic - and it was!

When I arrived at the Hot Spring in 2005 there were a couple of 20 somethings soaking. They looked sheepish when I arrived even though they both had swim suits on. I chatted with them a bit - asking how the water felt, etc. Then, I could wait no longer and said: "I have nothing to wear, but I'm comin' in!" Then proceeded to strip and join them in the wonderfully warm water. Slowly but surely the 3 of us warmed up to each other.

After a bit they departed and I had the spring to myself. I thought about Martin and Kathy in that very spot and how they must have enjoyed it. Now, Betsy and I could do the same.

Click on the photos below for a larger image.

From a 20 something to a 60 something...
Lookin' good Betsy!!!

The most famous of the thermal features along the Big Bend of the Rio Grande is the Langford Hot Springs. Located where Tornillo Creek enters the Rio Grande, some four miles upriver from Boquillas Canyon and the Mexican village of Boquillas. The natural springs at the site are known as Boquillas Hot Springs. Boquillas is Spanish for "little mouths" and refers to the many small streams or arroyos that drain this part of the Sierra del Carmen range and flow into the Rio Grande.

Later, when the springs were promoted for their health benefits, the settlement and spa resort there was called Hot Springs, and a post office by that name was established at the site in July 1914. Although there are several other small hot springs in the area, these larger and more accessible springs are the best known.

The temperature of the springwater, which is heated geothermally, is 105°F year-round; the water contains calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium chloride, and lithium. The springs' flow rate in 1936 was 250,000 gallons a day, but more recent measurements show a decrease.

Source: NPS

When we first arrived at the spring, there were 4 people enjoying the warm, relaxing water. After giving them fair warning Betsy and I stripped and joined them. For a while there was a steady procession of people who came back to see the hot spring. Two of these folks were the mother and daughter team we had met over at Boquillas Canyon.

Although not apparent in this photo, the river water was much lower than during my visit in 2005. At that time I was able to lounge in the pool with my had dangling in the river water. It was almost to the level of the spring box. This time it was a good 2-3' below the edge of the spring.

Betsy takes the cure for getting too hot - a dip in the Rio Grande.

It was bit easier climbing into the water than getting back out. Fortunately there was a willing helper on hand.

By now it was approaching the "golden hour" and the setting sun was really lighting up the landscape.

As we made our way back to the van, I took a few shots of the some of the old buildings which were left over from the hey-day of the spring resort.

Visitors stand in front of the Hot Springs store & post office, 1930s

That was then...

...this is now.

The Hot Springs Historic District preserves the rich history of human occupation from thousands of years past to the not-so-distant past. Visitors can study rock art left behind on the limestone cliffs, picture farms of corn, squash and beans along the river’s floodplain, or imagine what it would have been like to meet at the Hot Springs Post Office in the early 1900s to collect your mail each Monday. By exploring this area all of these stories from the past can come to life.

The Hot Springs was more than just a place to restore your health, it was a meeting place for people from all walks of life, from both sides of the river. It was a prelude to the tourism that would come with the establishment of Big Bend National Park.

Today, visitors can take a walk back in time and visit the Hot Springs area. Several of the buildings have been preserved and tell the story of a time past. You can still soak in the 105°F waters that bubble up from a hole in the ground. After a long day of hiking in the park you may feel the same curative powers from the water as did J.O. Langford.

Source: NPS