Thursday, October 8th
56 degrees and foggy this AM, the first foggy morning since my arrival nearly 2 weeks ago.
After getting back from Farley's at around 10:45 I got out my bus map and plotted my route to Precita Eyes Mural Arts Visitors Center in the Mission. This trip would mean a new bus line for me: the 12 Folsom which has a rather circuitous route from Pacific Heights to the Embarcadero, then down Folsom to Army/Cesar Chavez Street. The 12 crosses the 22 line at 16th and Folsom so it would be an easy transfer for me.
Click on the photos below for a larger image.
I got off the bus at 24th and Folsom and started east on 24th towards Harrison Street until I reached 2981.
During my visit to San Fran in 2007 I had really been amazed by some of the murals I stumbled across while biking, bussing and walking through The City. So, on this visit I decided to stop by the Mural Center and learn more about them. I was greeted by a very knowledgeable and friendly woman who gave me a thorough explanation of program and murals in the neighborhood.
This rather morbid item, on the counter, was made by the same woman who told about the murals. She went on to explain about the young girls in Mexico who went to the border towns like Juarez to work and often were never heard from again. Their fates? Fodder for the black market in human organs. Grim.
A federal prosecutor is examining 14 cases linked to a police informant who says that he saw women’s bodies that had been “hollowed out” and their organs removed. The informant is also a suspect in several of the murders.
The inquiry is part of a far larger mystery involving the deaths of nearly 300 women over the past decade in Juarez. The unsolved crimes have been an embarrassment to officials in the border state of Chihuahua. Several suspects have been arrested, only to be released after evidence against them proved to be flimsy.
When I expressed interest in Colette Crutcher's work she took me to the back room to show me this rendering of a new tile mural that was in the process of being made.
She then took me to a work room and pulled some tiles which had been made for the above mentioned mural. Amazing. The level of detail and the tonal range in these mural mosaics in stunning.
This cloth banner was hanging up in the work room.
I then left the work rroom and purchased a mural. I was now ready to take a look around the neighborhood.
But, first things first - lunch!
I had walked by this place earlier and been distracted by aromas wafting out of the Taqueria Vallarta (3033 24th Street - between Balmy St & Treat Ave) .
Oh, yummy -
brain tacos!!!
And tongue and cheek and hip as well, with all the fixin's thrown in. Today was my lucky day.
This guy had his cooking rig parked right inside the door and was serving them up fast and hot.
When you ordered he would heat some shells up on the raised center of the heated tray and then add your selected meat.
The open door allowed easy access for the pigeons who where here, there and everywhere cleaning up the crumbs.
I had ordered one brain and one tongue taco, but, they were out of brains. Darn it! So I ordered two tongue tacos and then loaded them up with onions, cilantro and a very tasty salsa verde.
The meat was sitting on two shells so I was able to divide up the meat and toppings between them and end up with 4 - all for the price of $3.00.
My hunger satisfied I walk out and with 15 feet or so was in Balmy Ally.
As you would expect, every mural is telling a story, but, what that story is, is not always obvious to the casual viewer.
That's gotta hurt!!
"United in Struggle"
These garage doors made excellent palettes.
The highly revered Archbishop Oscar Romero.
Romero was killed by a shot to the heart on March 24, 1980, while celebrating Mass at a small chapel located in a hospital called "La Divina Providencia", one day after a sermon where he had called on Salvadoran soldiers, as Christians, to obey God's higher order and to stop carrying out the government's repression and violations of basic human rights. According to an audio-recording of the Mass, he was shot while holding up the Eucharist. When he was shot, his blood spilled over the altar.
Source: WikiPedia
I found the color and intensity of these murals very compelling.
I would love to know all the stories behind these murals.
This one is on 24th Street. As I remember the story, there was a Chinese man who sold goldfish in this store front for many years. When he passed away his daughter commissioned the Precita Eyes Muralists to paint this fitting memorial for him.
There is a mini-park and playground on 24th and York. It has another fabulous mosaic by Crutcher.
It is a Quetzalcoatl - a winged serpent.
The overall impact of these mosaics is significant, but if you look closely there are a lot of interesting details worked in.
These kids were having a great time running in and out of the jets of water.
The lighting that morning was very poor and I hope to go back and try for some better shots.
There are lots of Panaderias here, including La Victoria where I purchased my first crispy and delicious Orejas.
The murals are everywhere! And, I only scratched the surface.
The woman at Precitas Eyes told me about this one at Hampshire and 24th Streets. I was instantly fascinated by her description of it.
It is made entirely of paper and so it was temporary. I was told the artist was a woman by the name of Swoon from New York City. I was also told, with great emphasis, her work was placed illegally, unlike that of the Precitas Eyes Muralists.
I found the fine detail work quite amazing.
This is looking down 24th street. Notice the sign in the background for the " Sushi Bistro". There are some who feel they (sushi joints) are the kiss of death to a neighborhood and are a prediction of impending gentrification.
However, gentrification takes money and requires a certain amount of affluence to feed the metamorphosis. Perhaps the so called economic slow down will forestall this one.
This huge mural entitled "500 Years of Resistance" is on Florida Street at 24th. The artist isSalvadoran Isaias Mata. It is on two sides of St Peter's church.
Once again, I was stunned by the level of detail.
I snapped a few more shots as I made my way back up to the bus stop to catch the 12 Folsom back to 16th Street.
As I leaned against a tree waiting for the bus, I took a closer look.
A corner store near the bustop made me understand why there are some many "brown baggers" walking the streets.
I boarded the bus, got off at 16th street and walked over to the Safeway for more of my own beer, a welcome home bottle of wine for Bruce, and few other items. I then turned the corner and stopped at the USPS to send a few things back home. Then it was back on board the 22 and home by 2:30.
I relaxed for a bit and took a short nap and then, at around 4:00, it was back on the 22 . Next stop: Namu's on Balboa and 4th for some dinner.
Once again, I had to consult the bus map prior to this little excursion and I saw I would be on another line new to me - the 31 Balboa which runs from the Tenderloin - near downtown, then passes through the Richmond district and ends at Ocean Beach.
I got off at 4th and Balboa Street and found Namu, a place Morgantowner Don had recommended to me. Having checked out reviews and the online menu, I knew it would be pricey, but, I was ready for something a little less common place than tongue tacos.
But, it was not to be. I got there at the crack of 5:00 and opening time was 5:30. Already famished I decided Namu would have to wait and I started looking around for someplace else. Just up the block I spotted a Thai place and so I headed up that way.
The place, called
Thai Noodle Jump, (560 Balboa St -
between 6th Ave & 7th Ave) was empty, but open.
The interior of Thai Noodle Jump. I was very glad the TV was not on.
I perused the menu and ordered the "Golden Noodles". Why did I do this?
I should have known from the menu description it was going to be something I have had many times before, but only with a different name: Singapore Chow Mai Fun
Perhaps my ordering was just a subconscious desire for some "comfort food" from back home.
The only thing missing (regrettably) from the dish were prawns as used in Singapore Chow Fun/Mai Fun.
The four condiments on the table were chopped peanuts, sliced jalapenos, crushed red pepper and this, which I initially thought was chili paste. But after sampling it I found it to be thinner in consistency and fresh made looking. Also, it did not have the kick of the usual chili paste and the flavor was slightly sweet.
I liked it and added it to my dish several times before polishing it off.
I paid up (7.50) and skipped my usual shot of the store front as it was undistinguished, as the whole neighborhood was to me. Walking around, it looked about as interesting as Wonder Bread. But, then again, it's not my neighborhood.
Being out this way, my thoughts turned to visions of Russian Pastries and Chinese made Orejas. Time for a little more shopping. I walked up 5th Ave to Geary and then caught the 38 outbound and got off at 20th, the location of " Russian Bakery". I walked in and was glad to see they had the poppy seed cake I liked. So I ordered a hunk of it and also a hunk of "Honey Bread" which looked interesting. I say "hunk" because they were about 3x4x4 inches in size and quite hefty. I paid my $3.80 and then walked the 1 block of to Clement Street.
My next stop would be the Cherry Blossom Bakery at 4th and Clement. I thought about catching the 2 Clement and riding the mile and a half, but I decided the walk would do me good and I would see more.
I got to the bakery at 4th Ave, bought 2 of Orejas or Butterflies as they called them at this bakery, paid my $1.70 and walked across to the bus stop. In a few minutes I was on the 2 Clement which I rode to Sutter Street and Fillmore. A 22 had just rolled into the stop and the driver of the 2 opened the doors before we got to the stop on the other side of the street and I, and several others dashed to the 22 stop and just barely maid it. This probably saved us at least a 15 minute wait.
The ride back to 18th and Texas was uneventful and I walked in the door at about 7:15.
I was glad to slip into my "comfies", have a beer and relax in the relative quiet of my home away from home.
