Portsmouth

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This article is about the English city of Portsmouth. For other places with the same name, please see Portsmouth (disambiguation).

City of Portsmouth
Image:EnglandPortsmouth.png
Geography
Status: Unitary, City (1926)
Region: South East England
Ceremonial County: Hampshire
Area:
- Total
Ranked 319th
40.25 km²
Admin. HQ: Portsmouth
ONS code: 00MR
Demographics
Population:
- Total (2003 est.)
- Density
Ranked 74th
188,731
4,689 / km²
Ethnicity: 94.7% White
2.4% S.Asian
Politics
Arms of Portsmouth City Council
Portsmouth City Council
http://www.portsmouth.gov.uk/
Leadership: Leader & Cabinet
Executive: Liberal Democrats
MPs: Mike Hancock, Sarah McCarthy-Fry
View over Portsmouth from Portsdown Hill.
Enlarge
View over Portsmouth from Portsdown Hill.

Portsmouth is a city of about 186,000 people located in the county of Hampshire on the southern coast of England. A significant naval port for centuries, it is home to the world's oldest dry dock still in use and to many famous ships.

Most of the city lies on Portsea Island, located where the Solent joins the English Channel. The island is separated from the mainland to the north by a narrow creek, bridged in places to make it - in appearance - a peninsula. The sheltered Portsmouth Harbour lies to the west of the island and the large tidal bay of Langstone Harbour is to the east. Portsdown Hill dominates the skyline to the north and to the south are the waters of the Solent with the Isle of Wight beyond.

Portsmouth includes the following residential districts: Buckland, Copnor, Cosham, Eastney, Fratton, Hilsea, Kingston, Milton, North End, Portsea, Paulsgrove, Somers Town, Southsea, Stamshaw, Tipner and Wymering.

Portsmouth has declined as a military port in recent years but remains a major dockyard and base for the Royal Navy. There is a commercial port serving destinations on the continent for freight and passenger traffic.


Contents

Name

The origin of the name Portsmouth is a matter of some dispute, popular legend holds that it comes from being the "mouth of the port" (the port originally being that at Portchester, previously known as Portus Adurni). The other main suggestion is that the name came from a chieftain with the name Port (not an uncommon old English name) with the Saxon word mutha.

The city is also known as Pompey (pronounced pom -pee) - again, the term is of unknown, although widely speculated meaning.

History

Early history of the area

Although there have been settlements in the area since before Roman times, mostly being offshoots of Portchester, Portsmouth is commonly regarded as having been founded in 1180 by John of Gisors (Jean de Gisors). Most early records of Portsmouth are thought to have been destroyed by French invaders following the Norman Conquest. The earliest detailed references to Portsmouth can be found in the Southwick Cartularies.

In the Domesday survey there is no mention of Portsmouth. However settlements that later went on to form part of Portsmouth, primarily Buckland (later Portsea), Copnor and Froddington (later Fratton) were listed. At this time it is estimated the Portsmouth area had a population not greater than two or three hundred.

While in the primary manor of Portsea there was a small church prior to 1166 (now St Mary's at Kingston) Portsmouth's first real church came into being in 1181 when John of Gisors granted an acre (4,000 m²) of land to Augustinian monks at the Southwick Priory to build a chapel dedicated to Thomas a Becket. This chapel continued to be run by the monks of Southwick Priory until the Reformation after which its possession was transferred to Winchester College. The modern Portsmouth Cathedral is built on the original location of the chapel.

Growth of the city

In 1194, after King Richard I (the Lionheart) returned from being held captive by Duke Leopold V of Austria, Richard set about summoning a fleet and an army to Portsmouth, which Richard had taken over from John of Gisors. On May 2, 1194 King Richard I gave Portsmouth its first Royal Charter granting permission for the city to hold a fifteen day annual fair (which became known as the Free Market Fair), weekly markets (on Thursdays), to set up a local court to deal with minor matters, and exemption from paying the annual tax ("farm") of £18 a year--instead the money would be used for local matters. The actual physical charter was handed over by the Bishop of Ely William de Longchamps. The present location of the charter is currently unknown but its text survives, as when later royal charters were granted to the city reaffirming and extending its privileges large parts of the original charter were quoted verbatim.

As a crescent and an eight-point star (as appear on the city coat of arms) were to be found on both the seals of King Richard and William de Longchamps it is commonly thought that this may have been the source of them, although there is no known documentary evidence for this.

King Richard later went on to build a number of houses and a hall in Portsmouth, the hall is thought to have been at the current location of the Clarence Barracks (the area was previously known as Kingshall Green).

In 1200 King John issued another charter to Portsmouth reaffirming the rights and privileges awarded by King Richard. King John's desire to invade Normandy resulted in the establishment of Portsmouth as a permanent naval base.

In 1212 William of Wrotham (Archdeacon of Taunton, Keeper of the King's Ships) started constructing the first docks of Portsmouth. At about the same time Pierre des Roches (Bishop of Winchester) founded Domus Dei (Hospital of St Nicholas) which performed its duties as an almshouse and hospice until 1540 when like other religious buildings it was seized by King Henry VIII).

During the thirteenth century Portsmouth was commonly used by King Henry III and Edward I as a base for attacks against France.

By the fourteenth century commercial interests had grown considerably, despite rivalry with the dockyard of nearby Southampton. Common imports included wool, grain, wheat, woad, wax and iron, however the ports largest trade was in wine from Bayonne and Bordeaux.

War with France

In 1338 a French fleet led by Nicholas Behuchet arrived at Portsmouth docks flying English flags before anyone realised that they were a hostile force. The French burnt down most of the buildings in the town and many of the population were raped and slaughtered, only the local church and Domus Dei survived. As a result of this King Edward III gave the remaining townsfolk exemption from national taxes so that they could afford to rebuild the town.

Only ten years after this devastation the town for the first time was struck by the plague known as the Black Death. In order to prevent the regrowth of Portsmouth as a threat the French again sacked the city in 1369, 1377 and 1380.

King Henry V was the first king to decide to build permanent fortification in Portsmouth. In 1418 he ordered a wooden Round Tower be built at the mouth of the harbour, which was completed in 1426. However it wasn't until the Tudor dynasty that Portsmouth's defence was seriously dealt with. Under King Henry VIII the Round Tower was rebuilt out of stone and a Square Tower was raised. It was at this time that Robert Brygandine and Sir Reginald Bray, with the support of the king, commenced the building in Portsmouth of the country's first dry dock. In 1527 with some of the money obtained from the dissolution of the monasteries Henry VIII built the fort which became known as Southsea Castle.

Over the years Portsmouth's fortification was increased by numerous monarchs including King Henry VII and Queen Elizabeth I, although most of these have now fallen into disrepair or been converted into tourist attractions.

On December 21, 1872 the Challenger expedition was launched from Portsmouth.

20th century

The Spinnaker Tower, as seen from Gunwharf Quays.
Enlarge
The Spinnaker Tower, as seen from Gunwharf Quays.

The city was bombed extensively during WW2, while most of the city has since been rebuilt developers still occasionally find unexploded bombs.

In 2003, erection was started of a 170 metre high Spinnaker Tower sited at Portsmouth Harbour, and celebrating the city's maritime tradition. Completed in 2005, the tower has twin concrete legs meeting at half height to form a single column from which steel sails are mounted; an observation deck at the top provides a view of the city and harbour for tourists.

In late 2004, Tricorn Centre, dubbed "The ugliest building in the UK" was finally demolished after years of delay and wrangling over the cost of doing so and the controversy as to whether it was worth preserving as an example of sixties Brutalist architecture.

Education

Higher and further education

The city has one university, the University of Portsmouth, but several local colleges also have the power to award HNDs.

Local further education colleges include Highbury College, the largest, which specializes in vocational education, Portsmouth College, South Downs College and Havant College which all offer a mixture of academic and vocational courses.


Secondary education

Local secondary schools are Admiral Lord Nelson School, City of Portsmouth Girls' School, King Richard Secondary School, Mayfield School, Milton Cross School, Priory School, Springfield School, St Edmund's RC School, St Luke's CofE VA Secondary School and The City of Portsmouth Boys' School.

Independent schools include Mayville High School, Portsmouth High School, St John's College and Portsmouth Grammar School.

Both Admiral Lord Nelson School and Milton Cross School were built recently to meet the demand of a growing young population.

Government

The city is administered by the Portsmouth City Council, which is currently a unitary authority. Until April 1, 1997 it was a district of Hampshire. The legally defined borders of Hampshire, as used for local government purposes, were adjusted in 1997 by the "Hampshire (Cities of Portsmouth and Southampton) (Structural Change) Order 1995". However, for most purposes, such as postal addresses, the city is generally still regarded as being part of Hampshire.


Media

Portsmouth was one of the first cities in the UK to get a local TV station, MyTV (which later rebranded to PortsmouthTV) in 2001. The TV station has had some success but it limited availability in some parts of Portsmouth has limited its growth.

The local radio station is 107.4 The Quay. Other regional stations that cover the central south coast include Ocean FM, on a broadcast frequency of 96.7 to 97.5FM, and BBC Radio Solent on 96.1FM. Before 107.4 The Quay, Radio Victory was the local station in Portsmouth.

The city currently has only one major daily local newspaper known as The News. Johnston Press, owner of Portsmouth Publishing & Printing, the company producing The News, also produces a free weekly "local affairs" newspaper called The Journal.

Shopping

In the last decade the number of shops in Portsmouth has grown dramatically due to both the buoyancy of the local economy and improved transport links.

Shopping areas in the city include:

  • Ocean Retail Park is an out of town shopping area located on the north eastern side of Portsea Island off the A2030 leading to the A27. It is close to the site of the old Portsmouth Airport that closed in 1973. The retail park is composed of shops requiring large floor space for selling consumer goods (furniture, electrical goods, computers).
  • Cascades Shopping Centre an indoor shopping centre built in the early nineties with approximately 75 shops covering a wide range of goods.
  • Commercial Road running alongside the Cascades shopping centre this area contains approximately a further 50 shops, located near Portsmouth & Southsea train station.
  • Gunwharf Quays a new shopping area which opened in 2002 in consists of 85 mainly upmarket fashion stores, restaurants and a Vue multi-screen cinema, located near Portsmouth Harbour train station and the Hard Bus Interchange, and a relatively short walk from Commercial Road.
  • Bridge Centre a 11,043 square metre shopping centre built in 1988, now dominated by the newly built Asda Walmart store.

Other shopping areas with more than twenty shops include North End, Fratton Road, Palmerston Road, Elm Grove and Albert Road.


Sport

The city is home to Portsmouth F.C., who play their home games at Fratton Park. The club are in the process of building a new stadium on the same site. Locks Sailing Club at Longshore way is the city's premier dinghy sailing club. Portsmouth Rugby Football Club play their home games in the London Division at Rugby Camp, Hilsea.

The city's rowing club is located in Southsea at the Seafront near the Hovercraft Terminal.

Tourist Attractions

Most of Portsmouth's tourist attractions are related to its naval history. In the last decade Portsmouth's historic dockyard has been given a much needed face-lift. Among the attractions are the D-Day museum (which holds the Overlord embroidery), HMS Victory which has been restored in the Dockyard, the remains of the Mary Rose raised from the sea-bed in recent years and HMS Warrior.

The much-troubled millennium project to build the Spinnaker Tower at Gunwharf Quays was finally completed in 2005. The tower is 165 m tall, features viewing decks at sea level, 100 m, 105 m, and 110 m. A high speed internal lift runs up one leg, and a panoramic external glass lift runs up the outside of the opposite leg.

Other tourist attractions include the birthplace of Charles Dickens, Cumberland House (a natural history museum), and Southsea castle.


Transport and communications

The city has several mainline railway stations, on a direct route to London. Portsmouth's stations are (in order, out of the city): Portsmouth Harbour, Portsmouth & Southsea, Fratton, Hilsea and Cosham.

Portsmouth Harbour has passenger ferry links to Gosport and the Isle of Wight. A car ferry service to the Isle of Wight operated by Wightlink is nearby.

There is an ongoing debate on the development of public transport structure, with monorails and underground trains both being considered. There are plans for a rail-link to Gosport and the Port Solent residential & commercial complex. Existing stations are also due a face-lift.

There are three road links to the mainland. These are the M275, A3 (London Road) and A2030 (Eastern Road).

The telephone area code for Portsmouth is (023), and was previously (01705), and before that (0705).

Future developments


Portsmouth Naval Dockyard.
Enlarge
Portsmouth Naval Dockyard.

There is an ongoing debate on the development of public transport structure, with monorails and underground trains both being considered. A light rail link to Gosport has been authorised; presently there is a link via passenger ferry.

The Portsmouth Harbour rail & ferry terminal is due a face-lift.

Portsmouth's regeneration is being continued in the city centre with the demolition of the Tricorn Centre, a long abandoned shopping mall and car park, described as a "concrete monstrosity". Discussion is still ongoing as to what will be built in its place.

The rebuilding of Fratton Park, home to Portsmouth Football Club is set to hold 35,000 fans. The stadium will be built to allow Portsmouth to compete successfully in the English Football's Premier League. Along with the stadium, 500 houses will be built in a development called Pompey Village. This is currently at a planning stage.

Lists

Chronology

Famous residents

Population

Year Number of houses Population Source
1560 1000 (est) Portsmouth: a history by Patterson
1801 5310 32,160 1801 census
1811 6852 40,567 1811 census
1821 8627 45,048 1821 census
1831 9410 50,389 1831 census
1841 9886 53,032 1841 census
1851 12,825 72,096 1851 census
1861 15,819 94,799 1861 census
1871 19,013 112,954 1871 census
1881 22,701 127,989 1881 census
1891 29,353 159,251 1891 census
1901 36,368 188,133 1901 census
1911 231,165 1911 census
1921 247,343 1921 census
1931 249,300 1931 census
1951 233,545 1951 census
1961 68,618 215,077 1961 census
1971 197,431 1971 census
1981 175,382 1981 census
1991 177,142 1991 census
2001 186,700 (est) 2001 census (preliminary report)

See also

External links

History

Media

Museums

Transport

Webcams



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